The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a pal baked a good looking double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by a good looking winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mixture of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the proper instance of a brief listing of the only elements coming collectively into one thing rather more than then sum of their components.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, which means that you would be able to add seasonal elements to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized aspect of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a variety of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so when you’ve got it (and it is best to!) be sure you have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her authentic had chard. I take advantage of a lot of scallions in mine. In brief, it’s a kind of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up means again in 2005 when she wrote concerning the Judy panade recipe right here.
I’m going to dive in and reply plenty of questions right here that may pop up. The ingredient listing for this panade couldn’t be less complicated, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Type of Bread for this Panade?
The brief reply is an effective, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That mentioned, I can even argue that numerous that is private desire. In the event you bake sourdough at house, by all means, use that. Both of these alternative will doubtless end in a properly structured panade with good distinction between a few of the elements. The bread alternative is such a giant deal on this recipe, every one will impression your finish outcome immensely. I discovered the laborious means after I used a extra industrial sourdough loaf to make the panade one night time – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured stoop. You need the bread to place up a battle and maintain a little bit of pressure. Not go to mush altogether. One of the best model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old home made sourdough made with wild rice in it. 
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve finished crustless variations earlier than. In the event you determine you like an excellent oozy, silky panade, go crustless. In the event you like your panade to have extra construction, preserve your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Greatest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth we’ve got round or within the freezer (defrost). I really like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however in case you’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a hen broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I take advantage of a Totally different Cheeses on this Panade?
You possibly can! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that one in every of my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I favor barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with a minimum of a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too delicate.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I typically make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which some other fillings that I would be capable of pre-roast.
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private desire. After you bake panade a couple of times you’ll begin to get a way of what type you favor. You possibly can go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe under goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It appears to be like so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely shocking. It’s the last word consolation dish that I hope you take pleasure in as a lot as I’ve over time. Due to Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!
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